Griffitts:Conetainers: Difference between revisions
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* Get two large white tubs and fill them ½ full with Pro League turface | * Get two large white tubs and fill them ½ full with Pro League turface | ||
* Rinse the turface repeatedly until the water comes off clear | * Rinse the turface repeatedly until the water comes off clear | ||
** Your goal is to remove the smaller particles | ** Your goal is to remove the smaller particles as well as leaves, roots, and salt buildup left over from prior experiments | ||
* Drain off all of the water and autoclave | * Drain off all of the water and autoclave | ||
** 30 | ** For small loads, use the autoclave in 758 WIDB | ||
*** 30 minutes sterilize time, 30 minutes dry time | |||
** For large loads, use the autoclaves in 740 WIDB | |||
*** 60 minutes sterilize time, 99 minutes dry time | |||
*** If possible leave in the autoclave overnight for additional drying | |||
* Remove from autoclave and immediately cover with foil to prevent contamination | * Remove from autoclave and immediately cover with foil to prevent contamination | ||
* | ** It will be hot, so bring orange autoclave gloves | ||
* Wipe down a funnel and a scoop with 70% ethanol | <div class="noprint"><gallery> | ||
Image:Griffitts-Washing turface.JPG|Washing turface. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Turface debris.JPG|Washing removes debris like old leaves and silt. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Autoclaving turface.JPG|Turface is autoclaved to sterilize it. | |||
Image:Griffitts-turface covered with foil.JPG|Cover autoclaved turface with heavy-duty aluminum foil to maintain sterility.</gallery></div> | |||
==Cone preparation== | |||
<div class="noprint">[[Image:Griffitts-conetainer sterilization.JPG|right|thumb|A conetainer rack in the sink being sterilized with bleach.]]</div> | |||
* Fill the sink up with water and place a rack with 200 cones into it upside down | |||
** Make sure that all the roots from previous experiments have been removed—this may require scrubbing each one with the brush | |||
* When they are all clean add bleach until you can smell it easily (about 1.5 L) | |||
* Allow them to soak for several hours | |||
** We used to do this overnight, but the bleach was corroding the sinks | |||
* After they are done soaking, take them out, and place them on a cart covered with benchcoat and leave them in the autoclave room for an additional day to dry | |||
* Wipe down the rack well with 70% ethanol | |||
* Wrap white tape around the top of the rack so you can label each row | |||
* Wipe down the cover with 70% ethanol | |||
* Proceed to [[Griffitts:Conetainers#Batting square preparation|batting square preparation]] | |||
==Batting square preparation== | |||
NOTE: This should be done the same day as the [[Griffitts:Conetainers#Cone preparation|cone preparation]] | |||
* Cut the white batting into 200 squares (~1 square inch each) for each conetainer being prepared | |||
** They sometimes stick together, so it doesn't hurt to cut a few extra | |||
* Soak them overnight in a small tub with 4 L dH<sub>2</sub>O and 130 mL bleach | |||
** Cover with aluminum foil to prevent contamination | |||
* While wearing gloves, remove the squares from the bleach and squeeze them dry | |||
* Place them on a cart covered with benchcoat and leave them in the autoclave room for an additional day to dry | |||
** This can be the same cart that the conetainer rack is drying on | |||
* When the squares are dry, stuff them into the bottom of the [[Griffitts:Conetainers#Cone preparation|cones]] using sterile technique (a sterile inoculating stick is good for this) | |||
<div class="noprint"><gallery> | |||
Image:Griffits-batting sterilization.JPG|A plastic tub with batting squares and bleach. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Inserting cotton.JPG|Use a sterile applicator stick to push sterile cotton down into the bottom of the cones. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Good and bad cotton.JPG|'''A.''' Cotton which has been inserted too far. '''B.''' Cotton which is inserted correctly. </gallery></div> | |||
==Rack preparation== | |||
<div class="noprint">[[Image:Griffitts-Adding turface.JPG|right|thumb|Use a sterile scoop and funnel to add turface to the conetainer rack.]]</div> | |||
* Wipe down a funnel and a scoop with 70% ethanol | |||
* Using the sterile funnel and scoop, fill each cone to the top with turface | * Using the sterile funnel and scoop, fill each cone to the top with turface | ||
* Compact the turface by lifting it and pounding it against the counter | * Compact the turface by lifting it and pounding it against the counter | ||
* Fill each cone again until it is about 1 cm from the top of the cone | * Fill each cone again until it is about 1 cm from the top of the cone | ||
** It won’t compact much the second time, so be sure not to overfill | ** It won’t compact much the second time, so be sure not to overfill | ||
* Put on gloves and spray them with 70% ethanol | * Put on gloves and spray them with 70% ethanol | ||
* Wipe off any extra turface not in the cones | * Wipe off any extra turface not in the cones | ||
* Cover rack with Saran wrap until you are ready to plant and place dome on it | * Cover rack with Saran wrap until you are ready to plant and place dome on it | ||
==Planting== | ==Planting== | ||
* Add 3 mL sterile dH<sub>2</sub>O to a row of ten cones | |||
* Using flamed tweezers, dig a hole in the center of each of the cones | |||
* Remove parafilm from the [[Griffitts:Seed scarification and germination|germinated plants]] and add enough dH<sub>2</sub>O to the plates to allow all the plants to be kept moist | |||
* Using the flamed tweezers, insert the appropriate plant into the desired cone | |||
** It may sometimes be desirable to plant two plants per cone | |||
** Be sure not to force the plant into the turface, so that you don’t damage the root | |||
* Using the flamed tweezers, compact the turface around the plant | |||
** You want the top of the cotyledon showing and that is all | |||
* After planting all 10 cones, add another 3 mL sterile dH<sub>2</sub>O to each cone | |||
* Proceed to the next row of cones | |||
* After you have planted the entire rack, add another 3 mL sterile dH<sub>2</sub>O to each cone | |||
* Cover with Saran wrap, top with the dome, and place on the light bank | |||
* On the second day of [[Griffitts:Conetainers#Watering|watering]], remove Saran wrap and only use the dome from then on to cover them | |||
<div class="noprint"><gallery> | |||
Image:Hydrated Seedlings.JPG|Add water to germinated seedlings to keep them from drying out while planting. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Hydrating turface.JPG|Wet the turface before planting. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Digging in turface.JPG|Use sterile tweezers to dig a hole in the wet turface. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Planting.JPG|When planting seedlings, be careful not to pinch them with the tweezers. | |||
Image:Griffitts-Planted.JPG|Planted seedlings should only have the cotyledon showing above the wet turface.</gallery></div> | |||
==Watering== | ==Watering== | ||
Note: On average we set an experiment for 25 days<br> | Note: On average we set an experiment for 25–28 days<br> | ||
* During the first week, water every day with 1X [[Griffitts: | * Use a black marker to mark ten 3-mL intervals on a 25-mL pipette | ||
* During the second week, water every other day with autoclaved dH<sub>2</sub> | * Being careful not to touch the rack, turface, or plants with the pipette, dispense 3 mL of water or SNM per cone | ||
* During the third week, water every other day with 1X [[Griffitts: | ** Do not reuse 25-mL pipettes | ||
* During the last | * Watering schedule: | ||
** During the first week, water '''every day''' with 1X [[Griffitts:Common media#Broth|SNM]] | |||
** During the second week, water '''every other day''' with autoclaved dH<sub>2</sub>O | |||
** During the third week, water '''every other day''' with 1X [[Griffitts:Common media#Broth|SNM]] | |||
** During the last week, water '''every day''' (except the day before you want to record your results) with dH<sub>2</sub>0 | |||
<div class="noprint">[[Image:Griffitts-Marked 25 mL pipette.JPG|center]]</div> | |||
==Inoculation== | ==Inoculation== | ||
Note: Inoculation day is four days after planting, so you will want to make sure that you have steps 1 and 2 done by Day 4 of the experiment | Note: Inoculation day is four days after planting, so you will want to make sure that you have steps 1 and 2 done by Day 4 of the experiment | ||
* Grow up all your bacterial strains to singles | |||
** This takes 2–3 days | |||
* From those singles patch out an ~1 cm square patch | |||
* Fill a Falcon tube with 1 mL more of dH<sub>2</sub>O than the number of plants you will be inoculating with the same bacterial strain | |||
* Put enough bacteria into the tube to make the solution slightly opaque | |||
* Vortex | |||
* Add 1 mL of the bacteria solution to each plant | |||
** Be sure to dig the pipetter ~0.5 cm into the turface so that it doesn’t splash | |||
** Make sure you keep track of where you are so you don’t inoculate the wrong plants! | |||
* Repeat Steps 3–6 for all bacterial strains |
Latest revision as of 09:41, 5 April 2010
Turface preparation
Note: For Best results do turface one week prior to desired planting day so that it has time to dry
- Get two large white tubs and fill them ½ full with Pro League turface
- Rinse the turface repeatedly until the water comes off clear
- Your goal is to remove the smaller particles as well as leaves, roots, and salt buildup left over from prior experiments
- Drain off all of the water and autoclave
- For small loads, use the autoclave in 758 WIDB
- 30 minutes sterilize time, 30 minutes dry time
- For large loads, use the autoclaves in 740 WIDB
- 60 minutes sterilize time, 99 minutes dry time
- If possible leave in the autoclave overnight for additional drying
- For small loads, use the autoclave in 758 WIDB
- Remove from autoclave and immediately cover with foil to prevent contamination
- It will be hot, so bring orange autoclave gloves
Cone preparation
- Fill the sink up with water and place a rack with 200 cones into it upside down
- Make sure that all the roots from previous experiments have been removed—this may require scrubbing each one with the brush
- When they are all clean add bleach until you can smell it easily (about 1.5 L)
- Allow them to soak for several hours
- We used to do this overnight, but the bleach was corroding the sinks
- After they are done soaking, take them out, and place them on a cart covered with benchcoat and leave them in the autoclave room for an additional day to dry
- Wipe down the rack well with 70% ethanol
- Wrap white tape around the top of the rack so you can label each row
- Wipe down the cover with 70% ethanol
- Proceed to batting square preparation
Batting square preparation
NOTE: This should be done the same day as the cone preparation
- Cut the white batting into 200 squares (~1 square inch each) for each conetainer being prepared
- They sometimes stick together, so it doesn't hurt to cut a few extra
- Soak them overnight in a small tub with 4 L dH2O and 130 mL bleach
- Cover with aluminum foil to prevent contamination
- While wearing gloves, remove the squares from the bleach and squeeze them dry
- Place them on a cart covered with benchcoat and leave them in the autoclave room for an additional day to dry
- This can be the same cart that the conetainer rack is drying on
- When the squares are dry, stuff them into the bottom of the cones using sterile technique (a sterile inoculating stick is good for this)
Rack preparation
- Wipe down a funnel and a scoop with 70% ethanol
- Using the sterile funnel and scoop, fill each cone to the top with turface
- Compact the turface by lifting it and pounding it against the counter
- Fill each cone again until it is about 1 cm from the top of the cone
- It won’t compact much the second time, so be sure not to overfill
- Put on gloves and spray them with 70% ethanol
- Wipe off any extra turface not in the cones
- Cover rack with Saran wrap until you are ready to plant and place dome on it
Planting
- Add 3 mL sterile dH2O to a row of ten cones
- Using flamed tweezers, dig a hole in the center of each of the cones
- Remove parafilm from the germinated plants and add enough dH2O to the plates to allow all the plants to be kept moist
- Using the flamed tweezers, insert the appropriate plant into the desired cone
- It may sometimes be desirable to plant two plants per cone
- Be sure not to force the plant into the turface, so that you don’t damage the root
- Using the flamed tweezers, compact the turface around the plant
- You want the top of the cotyledon showing and that is all
- After planting all 10 cones, add another 3 mL sterile dH2O to each cone
- Proceed to the next row of cones
- After you have planted the entire rack, add another 3 mL sterile dH2O to each cone
- Cover with Saran wrap, top with the dome, and place on the light bank
- On the second day of watering, remove Saran wrap and only use the dome from then on to cover them
Watering
Note: On average we set an experiment for 25–28 days
- Use a black marker to mark ten 3-mL intervals on a 25-mL pipette
- Being careful not to touch the rack, turface, or plants with the pipette, dispense 3 mL of water or SNM per cone
- Do not reuse 25-mL pipettes
- Watering schedule:
Inoculation
Note: Inoculation day is four days after planting, so you will want to make sure that you have steps 1 and 2 done by Day 4 of the experiment
- Grow up all your bacterial strains to singles
- This takes 2–3 days
- From those singles patch out an ~1 cm square patch
- Fill a Falcon tube with 1 mL more of dH2O than the number of plants you will be inoculating with the same bacterial strain
- Put enough bacteria into the tube to make the solution slightly opaque
- Vortex
- Add 1 mL of the bacteria solution to each plant
- Be sure to dig the pipetter ~0.5 cm into the turface so that it doesn’t splash
- Make sure you keep track of where you are so you don’t inoculate the wrong plants!
- Repeat Steps 3–6 for all bacterial strains